Chasing The Beach: The Real Paradise I Found in Phi Phi and Phuket

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I first learned about Phi Phi Island from the Leonardo DiCaprio film “The Beach.” The crystal-clear water and the hidden paradise completely captured my heart back then.

Funnily enough, on my recent trip to Thailand, “The Beach” happened to be one of the in-flight movies on Thai Airways, so I watched it again after all these years. All that old longing came flooding back. So today, I want to tell the story of how I actually reached that paradise.


How to Get to Phi Phi Island

First, head to Phuket

The usual route to Phi Phi goes through Phuket. Back then, I took a long-distance bus from Khao San Road all the way to Phuket.

Flying from Bangkok to Phuket is the easiest option, but since it’s connected by land, you can also go by train or long-distance bus. Take a night sleeper and you’ll arrive by morning. If you have time, the overland journey watching Thailand’s scenery pass by isn’t bad at all.

From Phuket by ferry or speedboat

There are two ways to cross from Phuket to Phi Phi.

Large Ferry
└ Travel time: about 2 hours
└ One way: 800-1,000 baht
└ Less rocking, more affordable

Speedboat
└ Travel time: about 1 hour
└ One way: 1,300-1,500 baht
└ Faster but rougher, bring motion sickness pills

Ferry for the relaxed traveler, speedboat if time is your priority.

photo by Humphrey M on Unsplash

Don’t Just Pass Through Phuket

It’s easy to treat Phuket as a mere transit point, but Phuket itself is a world-class beach resort.

The sea is beautiful, with diving and water sports on offer. The famous Similan Islands are even reachable as a day trip from Phuket.

What surprises me most is the contrast between day and night. By day it’s a relaxed beach resort, but at night the area around Patong Beach transforms completely. Bangla Road becomes a pedestrian entertainment district packed with clubs and bars. Fresh seafood, of course, plus a buzz that rivals Pattaya’s nightlife. The gap never fails to amaze me.

Recently, stylish beach clubs with infinity pools have been opening one after another, offering a different way to enjoy the island than in the old days.


The Shock of Arriving at Phi Phi

As the boat approaches Phi Phi, the sheer beauty takes your breath away.

The water is incredibly clear, but it’s a different kind of beauty than Miyakojima in Okinawa. The emerald green sea matched with Thailand’s distinctive towering limestone cliffs creates a one-of-a-kind landscape. I was completely captivated.

There are entry fees on arrival

Phi Phi charges a 20 baht entry fee at Tonsai Pier. If you’re heading to national park areas like Maya Bay, there’s a separate entry fee (400 baht adults, 200 baht children). It’s cash only on site, so keep some small bills handy.

photo by M o e on Unsplash

Maya Bay (The Beach Filming Location) Today

The legendary Maya Bay now has strict rules in place to protect the environment.

Current rules
└ Swimming completely prohibited (ankle-deep OK)
└ Entire bay closed August 1 - September 30 yearly
└ Daily visitor limit
└ Boats land from the back side at Loh Samah Bay

These measures aim to restore the nature once destroyed by overtourism. Precisely because it’s such a cherished place, we should visit responsibly.


Recommended Spots on Phi Phi

Pileh Lagoon
└ A cove like a natural pool surrounded by cliffs
└ Hugely popular for boat photography

Loh Dalum Bay
└ A beautiful shallow beach
└ Fire shows and beach parties at night

Monkey Beach
└ A beach where wild monkeys live
└ Watch out for them stealing your belongings

Snorkeling and Diving

The waters around Phi Phi stay warm at 28-30°C year-round with excellent visibility. You have a high chance of encountering sea turtles and blacktip reef sharks. The sharks are a gentle species, so there’s no need to worry.

There are dive shops with Japanese-speaking staff, and intro dives without a license are popular too. Experiencing your very first dive here would be unforgettable.


Accommodation from Budget to Luxury

I stayed at a budget backpacker bungalow in central Phi Phi. I was young, and it was more than enough to make me happy.

Phi Phi accommodation areas
└ Tonsai to Loh Dalum Bay
 Central, convenient, everything available
└ Laem Tong Bay (north end)
 Boat access only, luxury resorts
 Quiet, for grown-ups

You can choose based on budget and style. Budget once, luxury someday, that’s a fun way to do it.

photo by Denys Nevozhai on Unsplash

How I Spent My Days on Phi Phi

Here’s my ideal day on the island.

By day, I simply relax on the beach or snorkel in the crystal-clear water, swimming alongside fish that feel close enough to touch.

The highlight is sunset. Sipping a cocktail at a stylish cafe, listening to nothing but the sea breeze and the sound of the waves as the sun goes down. That moment was truly magical, the paradise I’d longed for from the movie sitting right before my eyes.


The Best Season Differs Slightly from Bangkok

This is a surprising pitfall. The southern islands of Thailand have slightly different weather from Bangkok.

November - April (dry season)
└ Best season
└ Calm waves, little rain
└ Highest water clarity

May - October (rainy season)
└ More squalls, rougher seas
└ Cheaper hotels
└ Surf season on the Phuket side

The Similan Islands are seasonal

The Similan Islands are open only from October 15 to May 15, completely closed otherwise. Advance registration and e-tickets are required, and overnight stays are banned (day trips only), so you need to plan ahead.


Always Follow the Environmental Rules

In recent years, strict rules with penalties have been introduced.

Sunscreen
└ Products with reef-harming chemicals
 banned in national parks
└ Fines up to 100,000 baht
└ Use "Reef Safe" labeled products

Others
└ No single-use plastics
└ No walking on coral or feeding fish

To preserve this paradise for future generations, these are absolutely worth following.


Final Thoughts

The Phi Phi Island I traveled to chasing “The Beach” didn’t just meet my expectations, it exceeded them. The emerald sea, the towering cliffs, the sunset cocktails. Everything was perfect.

Enjoy the resort and nightlife in Phuket, then immerse yourself in the real paradise of Phi Phi. If you’ve ever dreamed over that movie, it’s worth seeing with your own eyes at least once. Watch “The Beach” on your flight, and you’ll surely want to go again.

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