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Koh Tao in Thailand is a mecca for divers from around the world. It’s also the island where you can get a diving license cheaper than anywhere else on earth.

I’ll be honest with you. I’ve never been a good swimmer. Yet here on Koh Tao I earned my Open Water certification, and went on to get my Advanced license later in Dahab, Egypt. I did it while vomiting from seasickness and getting scolded by a female instructor who refused to let me quit. This is that story.

Getting to Koh Tao from Bangkok

I traveled from Bangkok on a joint bus and ferry ticket. Most long-distance tours from Bangkok depart from the Khao San Road area, making it a convenient starting point.

Route 1: Overland (cheapest, classic)
└ Bus + Ferry
└ About 10-12 hours
└ Around 1,250-1,550 baht
└ Night departure from Khao San, arrive morning

Route 2: Budget flight + ferry
└ LCC to Chumphon + bus + ferry
└ About 6-8 hours
└ Around 2,500-3,500 baht

Route 3: Fastest and most comfortable
└ Flight to Koh Samui + ferry
└ About 4-6 hours
└ Around 5,000-7,000 baht

If time is limited, flying to Koh Samui and catching the ferry from there is by far the most comfortable option.

Choose a Dive School in Your Own Language

There are plenty of dive schools on Koh Tao. When I visited, I chose one with Japanese-speaking staff.

Most dive schools have accommodation and restaurants on site, so you can enjoy a relaxed resort stay between sessions. That’s one of the great things about Koh Tao.

English and Japanese-friendly schools (2026)
└ Big Blue Diving (established Japanese-run shop)
└ Ban's Diving Resort (world-class mega resort)
└ Houbouya Koh Tao (20+ years of safe operation)
└ Coral Grand Divers

Whatever language you speak, always choose a school that can teach you in your mother tongue. This involves your life. It’s not a place to cut corners.

My Instructor Who Claimed to Know a Japanese TV Celebrity

The instructor assigned to me claimed to be connected to a famous Japanese TV personality. I won’t pretend that made any sense to non-Japanese readers, but it was the kind of strange, memorable detail you only get on the road.

The group was multinational but everyone clicked immediately. The days spent working toward the license were genuinely fun. Diving alongside people from around the world is one of those travel experiences that stays with you.

Cost and Time to Get Open Water Certified

Koh Tao is known as the cheapest place in the world to get a diving license.

Cost
└ Around 10,000 baht (approximately USD 280)
└ Includes materials, certification fees,
  equipment rental
└ Some schools include free accommodation

Time needed
└ 3-4 days
└ Complete online theory in advance
  and you can finish in as little as 3 days

Underwater Is Another World

I was never a strong swimmer, but diving is something else entirely compared to snorkeling.

The moment you descend into clear water and see enormous fish and schools of thousands moving around you, it feels like floating in outer space. That weightless, silent world is unlike anything else I have ever experienced.

The marine life around Koh Tao is extraordinary.

What you might see
└ Giant schools of trevally and barracuda
└ Yellowstripe scad (like a golden carpet)
└ Sea turtles and clownfish
└ Whale sharks

I Missed the Whale Shark

Koh Tao is world famous for whale shark sightings. Another group on my trip encountered one. I did not.

Best times for whale sharks
└ March - May (dry season)
└ October - November
└ Chumphon Pinnacle and other offshore spots

That remains unfinished business. One day I will swim with one.

The Seasickness Was Brutal

I have to be honest. The worst part of the whole experience was seasickness.

Koh Tao diving is mostly done from boats, and when the weather turns, those boats rock hard. I got so sick I genuinely wanted to quit and go home. I had earned exactly zero sympathy from my female instructor, who made it very clear that giving up was not an option.

Surprisingly, once I got underwater, the motion was gone. The ocean below the surface was completely calm.

The moment I will never forget

During our first classroom session, the instructor mentioned that if you need to vomit underwater, you can do it through the regulator. Just exhale hard and it clears.

I used this information sooner than expected.

What happened next was that a cloud of vomit drifted into the water around me, and within seconds a swarm of fish descended on it, apparently mistaking it for food. It was disgusting and somehow also one of the most memorable moments of the entire trip.

Seasickness Prevention Is Non-Negotiable

Learn from my experience. Bring motion sickness medicine.

Best option in Thailand
└ Available at 7-Eleven and pharmacies
└ "Dimenhydrinate" small yellow tablets
└ Around 10 baht per pack
└ Take 30 minutes before boarding
└ Warning: causes strong drowsiness

On the boat, avoid looking down at your phone. Sit in the middle or rear section where there is airflow, and keep your eyes on the horizon.

Best Spots on Koh Tao

Sairee Beach
└ Largest beach on the island
└ Cafes, bars, restaurants and shops
└ Beautiful sunsets and nightlife hub

Koh Nang Yuan
└ Three small islands connected by white sand
└ World-class snorkeling
└ Viewpoint with stunning panoramic views
└ No plastic allowed on the island

Shark Bay
└ High chance of spotting blacktip reef sharks
└ Giant sea turtles often seen here

Best Season and Important Warnings

Best season
└ March - October
└ Calm seas, visibility 20-30 meters
└ March-May is peak whale shark season

Avoid
└ November - December
└ Monsoon season, rough seas and poor visibility

Allow enough time before your flight

After diving, you must wait at least 18 hours before boarding a flight to avoid decompression sickness. Plan your final day carefully.

Travel insurance is essential

The island only has basic medical facilities. Serious incidents require evacuation to Koh Samui or the mainland. Make sure your travel insurance covers diving accidents before you go.

Final Thoughts

Even a non-swimmer who vomited through a regulator managed to get certified on Koh Tao. And that experience gave me the confidence to go on and earn my Advanced license in Egypt.

Koh Tao is the most beginner-friendly, most affordable, and most beautiful place to start your diving journey. Poor swimmer or seasickness sufferer, it doesn’t matter. The underwater world waiting for you is worth every moment of discomfort.

Just bring the motion sickness tablets. That is the one thing I will never stop telling people.

I first learned about Phi Phi Island from the Leonardo DiCaprio film “The Beach.” The crystal-clear water and the hidden paradise completely captured my heart back then.

Funnily enough, on my recent trip to Thailand, “The Beach” happened to be one of the in-flight movies on Thai Airways, so I watched it again after all these years. All that old longing came flooding back. So today, I want to tell the story of how I actually reached that paradise.

How to Get to Phi Phi Island

First, head to Phuket

The usual route to Phi Phi goes through Phuket. Back then, I took a long-distance bus from Khao San Road all the way to Phuket.

Flying from Bangkok to Phuket is the easiest option, but since it’s connected by land, you can also go by train or long-distance bus. Take a night sleeper and you’ll arrive by morning. If you have time, the overland journey watching Thailand’s scenery pass by isn’t bad at all.

From Phuket by ferry or speedboat

There are two ways to cross from Phuket to Phi Phi.

Large Ferry
└ Travel time: about 2 hours
└ One way: 800-1,000 baht
└ Less rocking, more affordable

Speedboat
└ Travel time: about 1 hour
└ One way: 1,300-1,500 baht
└ Faster but rougher, bring motion sickness pills

Ferry for the relaxed traveler, speedboat if time is your priority.

Don’t Just Pass Through Phuket

It’s easy to treat Phuket as a mere transit point, but Phuket itself is a world-class beach resort.

The sea is beautiful, with diving and water sports on offer. The famous Similan Islands are even reachable as a day trip from Phuket.

What surprises me most is the contrast between day and night. By day it’s a relaxed beach resort, but at night the area around Patong Beach transforms completely. Bangla Road becomes a pedestrian entertainment district packed with clubs and bars. Fresh seafood, of course, plus a buzz that rivals Pattaya’s nightlife. The gap never fails to amaze me.

Recently, stylish beach clubs with infinity pools have been opening one after another, offering a different way to enjoy the island than in the old days.

The Shock of Arriving at Phi Phi

As the boat approaches Phi Phi, the sheer beauty takes your breath away.

The water is incredibly clear, but it’s a different kind of beauty than Miyakojima in Okinawa. The emerald green sea matched with Thailand’s distinctive towering limestone cliffs creates a one-of-a-kind landscape. I was completely captivated.

There are entry fees on arrival

Phi Phi charges a 20 baht entry fee at Tonsai Pier. If you’re heading to national park areas like Maya Bay, there’s a separate entry fee (400 baht adults, 200 baht children). It’s cash only on site, so keep some small bills handy.

Maya Bay (The Beach Filming Location) Today

The legendary Maya Bay now has strict rules in place to protect the environment.

Current rules
└ Swimming completely prohibited (ankle-deep OK)
└ Entire bay closed August 1 - September 30 yearly
└ Daily visitor limit
└ Boats land from the back side at Loh Samah Bay

These measures aim to restore the nature once destroyed by overtourism. Precisely because it’s such a cherished place, we should visit responsibly.

Recommended Spots on Phi Phi

Pileh Lagoon
└ A cove like a natural pool surrounded by cliffs
└ Hugely popular for boat photography

Loh Dalum Bay
└ A beautiful shallow beach
└ Fire shows and beach parties at night

Monkey Beach
└ A beach where wild monkeys live
└ Watch out for them stealing your belongings

Snorkeling and Diving

The waters around Phi Phi stay warm at 28-30°C year-round with excellent visibility. You have a high chance of encountering sea turtles and blacktip reef sharks. The sharks are a gentle species, so there’s no need to worry.

There are dive shops with Japanese-speaking staff, and intro dives without a license are popular too. Experiencing your very first dive here would be unforgettable.

Accommodation from Budget to Luxury

I stayed at a budget backpacker bungalow in central Phi Phi. I was young, and it was more than enough to make me happy.

Phi Phi accommodation areas
└ Tonsai to Loh Dalum Bay
　Central, convenient, everything available
└ Laem Tong Bay (north end)
　Boat access only, luxury resorts
　Quiet, for grown-ups

You can choose based on budget and style. Budget once, luxury someday, that’s a fun way to do it.

How I Spent My Days on Phi Phi

Here’s my ideal day on the island.

By day, I simply relax on the beach or snorkel in the crystal-clear water, swimming alongside fish that feel close enough to touch.

The highlight is sunset. Sipping a cocktail at a stylish cafe, listening to nothing but the sea breeze and the sound of the waves as the sun goes down. That moment was truly magical, the paradise I’d longed for from the movie sitting right before my eyes.

The Best Season Differs Slightly from Bangkok

This is a surprising pitfall. The southern islands of Thailand have slightly different weather from Bangkok.

November - April (dry season)
└ Best season
└ Calm waves, little rain
└ Highest water clarity

May - October (rainy season)
└ More squalls, rougher seas
└ Cheaper hotels
└ Surf season on the Phuket side

The Similan Islands are seasonal

The Similan Islands are open only from October 15 to May 15, completely closed otherwise. Advance registration and e-tickets are required, and overnight stays are banned (day trips only), so you need to plan ahead.

Always Follow the Environmental Rules

In recent years, strict rules with penalties have been introduced.

Sunscreen
└ Products with reef-harming chemicals
　banned in national parks
└ Fines up to 100,000 baht
└ Use "Reef Safe" labeled products

Others
└ No single-use plastics
└ No walking on coral or feeding fish

To preserve this paradise for future generations, these are absolutely worth following.

Final Thoughts

The Phi Phi Island I traveled to chasing “The Beach” didn’t just meet my expectations, it exceeded them. The emerald sea, the towering cliffs, the sunset cocktails. Everything was perfect.

Enjoy the resort and nightlife in Phuket, then immerse yourself in the real paradise of Phi Phi. If you’ve ever dreamed over that movie, it’s worth seeing with your own eyes at least once. Watch “The Beach” on your flight, and you’ll surely want to go again.

The heart of Thai cuisine is street food. Cheap, delicious, and served with the atmosphere of the place itself. After 20 years of traveling to Thailand, here’s my honest take on what’s truly worth eating and how to eat it.

Let’s Start with My Legendary Tom Yum Goong Disaster

The first time I went to Yaowarat (Bangkok’s Chinatown), I ordered tom yum goong, one of the world’s three great soups. It arrived dramatically in a large pot with a hole in the middle, and I was thrilled at how authentic it looked. That joy lasted about ten seconds. The heat was beyond anything I had imagined. As I writhed in pain with tears streaming down my face, the group of Thai people next to me burst out laughing.

Desperate, I ordered a fresh-squeezed orange juice, and it was so sweet and delicious it might have saved my life. I’ll never forget that glass.

Funny thing is, despite that traumatic experience, I now order that quirky soup every single time I visit. I’ve become so addicted that I buy tom yum flavored cup noodles at convenience stores and supermarkets for late-night snacks. Thai flavors hit you slowly, even when they’re too spicy at first.

Yaowarat (Chinatown) Is the Best

In my personal opinion, the best street food in Thailand is found in Yaowarat. As evening falls, lively food stalls appear all along the street, and the aroma of dishes cooked in giant woks fills the air. It has the dignity you’d expect from a proper Chinatown.

Being Chinatown, there are plenty of delicacies too, even shark fin and bird’s nest. Portions are large, so the best way to enjoy it is to share with a group. That energetic atmosphere is worth experiencing at least once.

Bami Nam, the Thai Street Ramen

The dish I order at almost every stall is bami nam (Thai-Chinese noodle soup). Like Japanese shoyu ramen, it’s based on nam pla (fish sauce). That’s why the taste is similar at any stall, and the broth is consistently delicious.

Thai street stall tables usually have vinegar, sugar, chili, and nam pla available. You can add nam pla to adjust the flavor to your liking. But here’s the funny part: it tastes great added to the soup, yet the undiluted sauce smells terrible up close. That’s the charm of Thailand.

My Pick Is Poo Pad Pong Curry

When it comes to Thai curry, coconut-based soups like green and red curry are the mainstream, but my personal favorite is poo pad pong curry (crab stir-fried in curry powder). To be honest, it tastes less like curry and more like the egg sauce on a Japanese katsudon.

Poo pad pong curry is famous at restaurants with a crab logo, of which there are several branches. Perhaps because they’re so famous, one even had a photo of the Japanese Emperor on display.

[Official] Check out Somboon’s signature Fluffy Egg & Crab Curry on Instagram!

https://www.instagram.com/somboonseafood

And massaman curry, once named the world’s most delicious dish by CNN, is also a must-try. It’s a sweeter curry with peanuts and potatoes. Choose one where the chicken has been simmered until it falls apart.

Quick Reference: Classic Dishes

If you can’t handle spice, “mai pet” (not spicy) is the magic phrase.

How Thailand’s Street Food Scene Has Changed

Bangkok’s street food situation has changed dramatically in recent years.

Traditional roadside stalls have drastically decreased

Bangkok’s sidewalk cleanup campaign has removed stalls from major roads one after another. The famous Sukhumvit Soi 38 stall street, once beloved by Japanese tourists, was one casualty. Thailand is gradually shifting toward a “managed, clean culture” much like Singapore.

Food courts are now mainstream

Instead, the flavors of street stalls have concentrated in shopping center food courts. They’re air-conditioned, perfect for the hot season or rainy season, cheap, and reassuring when it comes to hygiene.

To taste the old atmosphere

If you still want that chaotic energy, I recommend Yaowarat (Chinatown) or Khao San Road. Both are specially permitted to operate stalls as tourism resources. At Khao San you can eat cheap pad thai and khao man gai while soaking up the atmosphere.

The countryside remains unchanged

By the way, in Chiang Mai, the Isaan region, or the outskirts of Bangkok, sidecar motorcycle stalls still line the roads every evening. The old-school local scene is alive and well outside the capital.

Tips for Not Failing at Street Food

Choose stalls where locals are lining up

This is the golden rule. A line means fast turnover and fresh ingredients. When in doubt, pick the crowded stall.

Be careful with water and ice

Always buy bottled water. Ice with a hole in the middle (cylindrical, from ice factories) is safe. Avoid crushed ice made from block ice.

Just point to order

Point at the menu or photo and say “an nee” (this one). Add “aroi” (delicious) and you’ll instantly bond with the owner.

Final Thoughts

Thai street food is changing, but its deliciousness and energy remain. You might cry from the spice at first, but that’s part of the Thai experience. To truly know Thailand, enjoy both the comfort of the food courts and the energy of Yaowarat.

Next time I’m in Thailand, I’ll probably order that tom yum goong from the pot with the hole in the middle all over again.

My first trip to Thailand was during my university days. Back then, Suvarnabhumi Airport didn’t exist yet — it was all Don Mueang. Today Don Mueang still serves as a hub for budget carriers like AirAsia. The moment I landed, I headed straight for Khao San Road, the legendary gathering point for backpackers from every corner of the world.

More than 20 years later, I still find myself dropping by every time I visit Bangkok. Maybe it’s just nostalgia, but there’s something about that place that keeps pulling me back.

What is Khao San Road?

“Khao San” means “uncooked rice” in Thai. In the 19th century this area was a major rice market. In the 1980s, locals began renting out spare rooms to foreign travelers at low prices, and gradually it developed into a budget accommodation hub.

Through the 1990s and 2000s, cheap guesthouses, street food stalls, travel agents handling long-distance bus tickets and visa services all packed in together, making it a place where backpackers could find everything they needed in one spot. When Leonardo DiCaprio’s film “The Beach” (2000) used it as a backdrop, Khao San Road’s reputation as the world’s backpacker mecca became truly global.

Khao San Road Back Then

In those days before smartphones, internet cafes lined the streets of Bangkok. You could walk into Khao San Road and find a bed without any reservation — rooms were always available. A single room ran about 150 baht, a dorm bed around 100 baht.

The main strip was an extraordinary jumble of guesthouses, souvenir shops, massage parlors, travel agents, street food stalls and tattoo shops, packed with travelers of every nationality.

The Back Streets of Khao San

One street over from the main road was what regulars called “Back Khao San,” lined with guesthouses catering specifically to Israeli travelers, Japanese travelers and others. Fruit shakes went for 10 baht. A bowl of Thai noodle soup (ba mee nam) was also 10 baht. The portions were small and the hygiene left something to be desired, but that was all part of the experience.

For Those Who Wanted Quiet

Travelers who wanted to escape the noise of the main strip headed for the temple area between Khao San and the Chao Phraya River. The guesthouses there were peaceful and popular with those who wanted to slow down.

The Sinking Travelers

Backpackers from all over the world used Khao San as their base to fan out across Southeast Asia — Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and beyond by land. But many never made it further. The place was so comfortable and cheap that travelers would get “stuck” for weeks or months. The locals called them sinking travelers.

Khao San Road Today

Smartphones have replaced internet cafes. Travel agents have disappeared. The image of the rough and ready backpacker haven has faded. Alongside budget guesthouses you now find proper hotels, stylish cafes and decent restaurants. And it’s not just foreign travelers anymore — Thai young people come here too, phones out, hunting for the perfect shot.

Two Completely Different Faces

During the day the vibe is relaxed. People sit in cafes and open-air bars, drinking and taking their time. But at night everything changes. The street transforms into an open-air club. Loud music pumps from every direction while crowds of mostly Western travelers drink and dance. If you love music, alcohol and letting loose, it’s an incredible atmosphere.

The Best Areas Around Khao San

The Temple Area (toward the Chao Phraya River) Walking from Khao San toward the river you reach a quieter temple district with stylish cafes, restaurants and street food stalls. It’s calmer and more relaxed than the main strip. The Chao Phraya River pier is close by, making it a convenient base for visiting the Grand Palace area.

Soi Rambuttri One street parallel to Khao San Road. No pounding bass here — just shaded terraces, relaxed cafes and a more laid-back crowd. If you want a taste of what old Khao San felt like, this is the place.

Choosing Your Hotel

Hotels close to the main strip can be extremely noisy at night. If you want to sleep, look for accommodation in the temple area toward the river.

Getting There

There are no BTS or MRT stations near Khao San Road. The easiest option is a Grab ride from wherever you are in Bangkok.

Alternatively, take the Chao Phraya Express Boat from Sathorn Pier (connected to BTS Saphan Taksin) and get off at Phra Arthit Pier — from there it’s about a 10-minute walk. A scenic and enjoyable way to arrive.

Important Warnings

Cannabis Thailand temporarily legalized cannabis and Khao San filled up with dispensaries. Regulations are now being tightened. Regardless of local laws, Japanese nationals should be aware that Japan’s cannabis laws apply to offenses committed abroad. Do not touch it under any circumstances.

Pickpockets and Scams Keep your phone and wallet secure, especially at night. The classic tuk-tuk scam — “The Grand Palace is closed today, let me take you somewhere else” — is still alive and well. Ignore it and keep walking.

Final Thoughts

From a gritty backpacker haven to a party street drawing travelers and Thai locals alike, Khao San Road has changed enormously. But its strange magnetic pull remains. Whatever kind of traveler you are, it’s worth stopping by at least once when you’re in Bangkok.